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3Cte Electronic Pump Overhaul

Discussion in 'Performance Modifications' started by Vorenus, 11 May 2008.

  1. Vorenus

    Vorenus Administrator

    ++++This is a post originally created by Club Member ClintJ and which has been copied here with his permission++++

    Here is my new 12mm plungered pump, it is from a toyota 1KZTE 3litre IDI turbo. The reason for me going down this route is that it can supply more fuel on the same ECU output signal.
    If you look at the plate you can get the following info from it
    VE4/12E2100RND013
    VE4 VE pump 4 cylinder/ 12mm plunger electronic 2100psi .........
    Thats all the info I need.
    It shares almost all the same fittings as the 3cte pump, I just had to move some over from the 3cte pump to make it 100% compatable but for the best part and for this tutorial the pumps are almost identicle and operate the same

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    This is where the stop valve resides. You can see the little mesh filter in there that can clog and effect the vehicles performance. This can be removed on the vehicle and cleaned and replaced without the need for bleeding air. Just start it back up!

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    The stop valve and filter

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    The cover over the timing piston

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    Cover removed

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    The topside of the pump and the spring end of the timing piston

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    The delivery valves

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    the delivery valve removed, There is a copper washer that should sit to the left hand side of that exploded pic.

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    The distributor head being removed

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    A quick peak inside at how looks assembled

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    The head removed with the 12mm plunger still in place with its springs

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    The back of the camplate and the little distancing spacer

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    the rollers and the spring that sets some preload on the plunger

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    Remove the rollers and the little black clip on the rod that is driven by the timing piston, there is a little pin behind the black clip that needs to come out. Once that is done just lift the rod upwards and then the piston cane come out from underneath

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    The timing piston out

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    this is the engines speed sensor or what I refer to as the pump reference sensor. It can tell the exact position of the pump Ie. timing in relation to the TDC sensor on the block.
    I had to drill these special bolts heads out to get them off but Ill replace them with normal bolts afterwoods.
    Just clear the mess out before trying remove the other parts of the pump and possible score the parts.

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    The actual fuel pump itself. Undo the screws and remove the plates.
    The last plate is tight and is tricky to get out. Just be patient!!

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    The empty shell

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    The sandblasted and cleaned out shell

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    This is the outer ring of the vane pump, note the step at the top. This must face the rear of the pump or looking at you when you place it in!

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    Installing the vanes, note that the dovetail goes into the center

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    Also note that the outer ring must have that hole facing to the top cover plate. There is a port located behind that for the fuel to flow through

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    This is the refernce disc. As you can see it is split into four segments referencing 90deg. note the washer, the groves on it face the the dimpled plate on the back of the vane pump.

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    Dont forget to place the keyway in the shaft.

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    As you can see, once you manage to get the key into the slot the the hole shaft should sit flush against the plate.

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    This isnt the hardest task to perform when putting the pump back together.
    PAY ATTENTION Just make sure that the piston has the spring end facing towards the data plate side of the pump.

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    Replace the pin and the clip

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    Make sure that you have placed the spring in there and that the rollers have the convex washer facing on the outside acting like a spring.

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    PAY ATTENTION, these 2 marks should line up. The key way on the back of the camplate and the keyway on the front of the shaft(external front, next pic)

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    Place the spacer back in so that the plunger rests on it

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    Rest the plunger first then the spring plate and then springs so your assembly looks like this. Its easier once you do the rollers to leave the pump so that gravity is helping you here. Dont move the pump until you bolt the head back on.

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    Ahh! If you werent paying attention when I told you, then pull it apart again and make sure that the spring end of the timing piston faces the data plate
    Practice makes perfect! Im speaking from experience here [​IMG]

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    Dont forget the little washer goes back in there. That is a soft aluminium cover and the stainless protects it!

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    Delivery Valves, first the copper washer then valve so that it looks like this. Then just place the spring and the body over the top of it and do it up.

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    My finished pump!!!
    Who can notice whit I have left off??
    Remember those bolts I drilled out? They were at home so they will go on later

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    How simple is that! Next time you get quoted a million dollars for a pump overhaul. Tell em to go jump.
    Of course I didnt use any new parts in the process but Im am sure that a rebuild kit could be purchased to do the job!

    ClintJ
     
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  3. quasar

    quasar Forum User

    Thanks for this - very instructive and detailed.
    What advantages/disadvantages of supplying more fuel on the same ECU?
    Would it improve torque at the detriment of fuel consumption?
    I'm planning to do this change along with the "seamless torque monster" mod.